• Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. If your roof is starting to collect moss or algae, install some zinc or lead control strips.
• Keep all fungus and algae from the surface. Install zinc control strips along the hips and ridges if necessary.
• Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
• Keep all gutters free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
• Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
• Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
• Check the mortar on the chimney, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
• Check the open valley metal for rust. Wire brush the rust then prime and paint the metal.
(Information from roofhelp.com)
Monday, November 30, 2009
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
The Story Behind Asphalt Shingles
Asphalt shingles are currently the most popular type of residential roof material for a variety of reasons. They are relatively inexpensive, starting at around $0.80 per square foot installed and go up from there. Things that determine cost are geographical location, slope of the roof, height of the building, ease of access to the premises, complexity of the project, the particular type of shingle and numerous other factors.
They come in a variety of colors and styles, are fairly durable (some have been tested and have achieved a class IV hail rating - the highest available!), and can be easily repaired and maintained.
Asphalt shingles come in two basic types: glass fiber (a.k.a. fiber glass) and organic. Organic shingles consist of an organic felt material which is generally paper saturated with asphalt to make it waterproof. A top coating of adhesive asphalt is then applied and the ceramic granules are then embedded. Organic shingles contain around 40% more asphalt per square (100 sq. ft.) than their glass fiber counterpart which makes them weigh more and gives them excellent durability and blow-off resistance.
Glass fiber shingles have a glass fiber reinforcing mat manufactured to the shape of the shingle. This mat is then coated with asphalt which contains mineral fillers. The glass fiber mat is not waterproof by itself. It's purpose is for reinforcement. What makes the glass fiber shingle waterproof is the asphalt. However, the asphalt itself will not stick to the mat. For this reason, "fillers" are used. The fillers in the asphalt cling to the glass fibers in the mat. The asphalt then encapsulates the glass fibers, fills all of the little holes and voids in the mat rendering it waterproof. After this cools a bit, an adhesive asphalt is used to cover the mat and the ceramic granules are then embedded.
The ceramic granules are there for two reasons. The primary reason is to protect the shingles from the sun. The sun's UV rays are very damaging to asphalt and cause it to deteriorate prematurely. This is one of the same reasons that gravel is used on built-up roofs. The second and more obvious reason for the granules is aesthetics. Asphalt shingles are available in a wide variety of colors to match almost any facade or landscape.
So which type is better? By far, the more popular shingles are the glass fiber ones. This may be attributed to the fact that they are cheaper and easier to manufacturer than organic shingles making them more cost effective to the homeowner, or it may be that they are easier to work with, or they may simply be a personal preference of the roofing contractor.
The lifespan of asphalt shingles depends highly upon the environment. Shingles in cooler climates such as the northern United States seem to last longer than those installed in the warmer climates. Studies have shown that the average lifespan for a 20 year shingle in Phoenix, Arizona is around 14 years. In Minneapolis, Minnesota the lifespan was 19.5 years. And in Reading, Pennsylvania, the lifespan was 20.8 years. From this data it seems obvious that the hotter the environment is, the shorter the service life of the shingles.
One thing that's very damaging to shingles is Thermal Shock. Thermal Shock is what roofing materials experience when the ambient temperature changes dramatically within a very short period of time - usually 24 hours. For example, in Yreka, California, the temperatures during a summer day can often reach 100 degrees and at night, they'll often drop below 50, sometimes as low as 40. Roofing materials are unable to expand and contract to accommodate such a dramatic temperature change in such a short period of time so cracks and splits in the materials start occurring.
Water can then enter the materials and damage them further in two ways. One is the damage water does to asphalt materials in general. It's not that water hurts asphalt, but algae and fungus do and the continuous presence of water will permit algae and fungus to grow on asphalt materials. Another way water damages is the freeze-thaw cycle. In the cold months, water will get into the cracks and then freeze at night.
Water expands as it freezes so the more this occurs, the bigger the cracks or splits become. This is why most roofing contractors and consultants are such big advocates of sloped roofs. The better the roof sheds water, the less problems it will usually experience.
(Information from Roofhelp.com)
They come in a variety of colors and styles, are fairly durable (some have been tested and have achieved a class IV hail rating - the highest available!), and can be easily repaired and maintained.
Asphalt shingles come in two basic types: glass fiber (a.k.a. fiber glass) and organic. Organic shingles consist of an organic felt material which is generally paper saturated with asphalt to make it waterproof. A top coating of adhesive asphalt is then applied and the ceramic granules are then embedded. Organic shingles contain around 40% more asphalt per square (100 sq. ft.) than their glass fiber counterpart which makes them weigh more and gives them excellent durability and blow-off resistance.
Glass fiber shingles have a glass fiber reinforcing mat manufactured to the shape of the shingle. This mat is then coated with asphalt which contains mineral fillers. The glass fiber mat is not waterproof by itself. It's purpose is for reinforcement. What makes the glass fiber shingle waterproof is the asphalt. However, the asphalt itself will not stick to the mat. For this reason, "fillers" are used. The fillers in the asphalt cling to the glass fibers in the mat. The asphalt then encapsulates the glass fibers, fills all of the little holes and voids in the mat rendering it waterproof. After this cools a bit, an adhesive asphalt is used to cover the mat and the ceramic granules are then embedded.
The ceramic granules are there for two reasons. The primary reason is to protect the shingles from the sun. The sun's UV rays are very damaging to asphalt and cause it to deteriorate prematurely. This is one of the same reasons that gravel is used on built-up roofs. The second and more obvious reason for the granules is aesthetics. Asphalt shingles are available in a wide variety of colors to match almost any facade or landscape.
So which type is better? By far, the more popular shingles are the glass fiber ones. This may be attributed to the fact that they are cheaper and easier to manufacturer than organic shingles making them more cost effective to the homeowner, or it may be that they are easier to work with, or they may simply be a personal preference of the roofing contractor.
The lifespan of asphalt shingles depends highly upon the environment. Shingles in cooler climates such as the northern United States seem to last longer than those installed in the warmer climates. Studies have shown that the average lifespan for a 20 year shingle in Phoenix, Arizona is around 14 years. In Minneapolis, Minnesota the lifespan was 19.5 years. And in Reading, Pennsylvania, the lifespan was 20.8 years. From this data it seems obvious that the hotter the environment is, the shorter the service life of the shingles.
One thing that's very damaging to shingles is Thermal Shock. Thermal Shock is what roofing materials experience when the ambient temperature changes dramatically within a very short period of time - usually 24 hours. For example, in Yreka, California, the temperatures during a summer day can often reach 100 degrees and at night, they'll often drop below 50, sometimes as low as 40. Roofing materials are unable to expand and contract to accommodate such a dramatic temperature change in such a short period of time so cracks and splits in the materials start occurring.
Water can then enter the materials and damage them further in two ways. One is the damage water does to asphalt materials in general. It's not that water hurts asphalt, but algae and fungus do and the continuous presence of water will permit algae and fungus to grow on asphalt materials. Another way water damages is the freeze-thaw cycle. In the cold months, water will get into the cracks and then freeze at night.
Water expands as it freezes so the more this occurs, the bigger the cracks or splits become. This is why most roofing contractors and consultants are such big advocates of sloped roofs. The better the roof sheds water, the less problems it will usually experience.
(Information from Roofhelp.com)
Sunday, November 1, 2009
Roofing: Preventative Maintenance
Although some roof systems take less maintenance than others, all roof systems should be checked periodically to be sure that they are free of debris and drains are clear. Bella Roofing recommends that you inspect your roof quarterly.
The best preventative maintenance that one can do is perform semi-annual inspections to identify and solve problems as they occur. Roofs get more abuse from the elements than any other part of the building, and preventative maintenance is a key element to saving money on your roof by providing a longer service life. This section will provide some general guidelines to help keep your roof in good working condition for as long as possible.
Asphalt Shingles
* Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will expedite roof deterioration, especially if your roof is asphalt based such as a built-up roof or asphalt shingles.
* If your roof is starting to collect moss or algae, install some zinc or lead control strips.
* Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
* Keep algae off of the roof surface. Install zinc control strips along the hips and ridges if necessary.
* Dab some roof cement under any loose shingle tabs. One dab on either side should do.
* Replace any damaged shingles.
* Keep all gutter free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
* Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
* Check the open valley metal for rust. Wire brush the rust then prime and paint the metal. If rust is prevalent, it can be removed using Rust-Away® Oxidation and Corrosion Remover. Manufactured by Hocking International, 2121 Hoover Ave., National City, CA 91950. Ph: 619/474-8457 Fax: 619/477-5630. It works very well. Paint the valley with Rustoleum® or similar product afterward.
* Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
* Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
Built-Up and Modified Bitumen Roofs
* Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will expedite roof deterioration, especially if your roof is asphalt based such as a built-up roof or asphalt shingles.
* If your roof has a gravel surfacing and there are some bare spots present, clean the bare spot thoroughly using a broom and a wire brush if necessary. Be sure to remove all loose dirt generated from brushing and sweeping. Blow on the area if need be. Spread a thin layer of asphalt roof cement (mastic) over the bare area about 1/8 inch thick. Gather some loose gravel from other areas of the roof and embed it in the roof cement.
* Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
* Check the edge metal. Make sure that it isn’t separating at the seams. If it is, then the repairs need to be made as soon as possible. This can usually be done easily by yourself or by any local qualified contractor.
* Check for blisters in the roof. DO NOT STEP ON OR PUNCTURE THEM. Call a local qualified contractor to patch them.
* Clean out and refill any pitch pockets where the filler is cracked and/or shrinking.
* Keep all gutter free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
* Water test any sump drains twice per year. Once in the spring and once in the fall before winter sets in. If they don’t drain properly, call a plumber and get them working properly. Drains will often leak if they are holding water.
* Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
* Check all caulking and sealants on flashings and copings. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
* Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
Wood Shakes and Shingles
* Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. If your roof is starting to collect moss or algae, install some zinc or lead control strips.
* Keep all fungus and algae from the surface. Install zinc control strips along the hips and ridges if necessary.
* Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
* Keep all gutters free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
* Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
* Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
* Check the mortar on the chimney, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
* Check the open valley metal for rust. Wire brush the rust then prime and paint the metal. If rust is prevalent, it can be removed using Rust-Away® Oxidation and Corrosion Remover. Manufactured by Hocking International, 2121 Hoover Ave., National City, CA 91950. Ph: 619/474-8457 Fax: 619/477-5630. This stuff works very well.
Single-Ply Roofs
* Remove all debris from the roof surface. This includes vegetation, dirt, loose nails and screws, unused equipment, etc. With a single-ply roof, you have only one layer of protection, so if a nail head gets stepped on and penetrates that one thin layer, then eventually there will be a leak.
* Check the seams. If they are coming apart, then they need to be patched as soon as possible.
* Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
* Check the edge metal. Make sure that it isn’t separating at the seams. If it is, then the repairs need to be made as soon as possible. This can usually be done easily by yourself or by any local qualified contractor.
* Check for bubbles and blisters in the roof. DO NOT STEP ON OR PUNCTURE THEM. Call a local qualified contractor to patch them.
* Clean out and refill any pitch pockets where the filler is cracked and/or shrinking. .
* Keep all gutters free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
* Water test any sump drains twice per year. Once in the spring and once in the fall before winter sets in. If they don't drain properly, call a plumber and get them working properly. Drains will often leak if they are holding water.
* Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
* Check all caulking and sealants on flashings and copings. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
* Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
Sprayed Polyurethane Foam (SPF)
* Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will expedite roof deterioration.
* Keep an eye on any blisters you see. If they get large enough that they split open, you will need to contact a foam contractor to repair them but they still should not leak.
* Any yellow exposed foam should be covered with polyurethane caulking.
* Any splits, punctures, or other forms of damage to the roof should be repaired using polyurethane caulking.
* Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
* Clean out all drains and water-test to ensure they aren't plugged.
* Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
* Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
(Information from roofhelp.com)
The best preventative maintenance that one can do is perform semi-annual inspections to identify and solve problems as they occur. Roofs get more abuse from the elements than any other part of the building, and preventative maintenance is a key element to saving money on your roof by providing a longer service life. This section will provide some general guidelines to help keep your roof in good working condition for as long as possible.
Asphalt Shingles
* Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will expedite roof deterioration, especially if your roof is asphalt based such as a built-up roof or asphalt shingles.
* If your roof is starting to collect moss or algae, install some zinc or lead control strips.
* Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
* Keep algae off of the roof surface. Install zinc control strips along the hips and ridges if necessary.
* Dab some roof cement under any loose shingle tabs. One dab on either side should do.
* Replace any damaged shingles.
* Keep all gutter free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
* Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
* Check the open valley metal for rust. Wire brush the rust then prime and paint the metal. If rust is prevalent, it can be removed using Rust-Away® Oxidation and Corrosion Remover. Manufactured by Hocking International, 2121 Hoover Ave., National City, CA 91950. Ph: 619/474-8457 Fax: 619/477-5630. It works very well. Paint the valley with Rustoleum® or similar product afterward.
* Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
* Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
Built-Up and Modified Bitumen Roofs
* Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will expedite roof deterioration, especially if your roof is asphalt based such as a built-up roof or asphalt shingles.
* If your roof has a gravel surfacing and there are some bare spots present, clean the bare spot thoroughly using a broom and a wire brush if necessary. Be sure to remove all loose dirt generated from brushing and sweeping. Blow on the area if need be. Spread a thin layer of asphalt roof cement (mastic) over the bare area about 1/8 inch thick. Gather some loose gravel from other areas of the roof and embed it in the roof cement.
* Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
* Check the edge metal. Make sure that it isn’t separating at the seams. If it is, then the repairs need to be made as soon as possible. This can usually be done easily by yourself or by any local qualified contractor.
* Check for blisters in the roof. DO NOT STEP ON OR PUNCTURE THEM. Call a local qualified contractor to patch them.
* Clean out and refill any pitch pockets where the filler is cracked and/or shrinking.
* Keep all gutter free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
* Water test any sump drains twice per year. Once in the spring and once in the fall before winter sets in. If they don’t drain properly, call a plumber and get them working properly. Drains will often leak if they are holding water.
* Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
* Check all caulking and sealants on flashings and copings. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
* Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
Wood Shakes and Shingles
* Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. If your roof is starting to collect moss or algae, install some zinc or lead control strips.
* Keep all fungus and algae from the surface. Install zinc control strips along the hips and ridges if necessary.
* Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
* Keep all gutters free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
* Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
* Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
* Check the mortar on the chimney, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
* Check the open valley metal for rust. Wire brush the rust then prime and paint the metal. If rust is prevalent, it can be removed using Rust-Away® Oxidation and Corrosion Remover. Manufactured by Hocking International, 2121 Hoover Ave., National City, CA 91950. Ph: 619/474-8457 Fax: 619/477-5630. This stuff works very well.
Single-Ply Roofs
* Remove all debris from the roof surface. This includes vegetation, dirt, loose nails and screws, unused equipment, etc. With a single-ply roof, you have only one layer of protection, so if a nail head gets stepped on and penetrates that one thin layer, then eventually there will be a leak.
* Check the seams. If they are coming apart, then they need to be patched as soon as possible.
* Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
* Check the edge metal. Make sure that it isn’t separating at the seams. If it is, then the repairs need to be made as soon as possible. This can usually be done easily by yourself or by any local qualified contractor.
* Check for bubbles and blisters in the roof. DO NOT STEP ON OR PUNCTURE THEM. Call a local qualified contractor to patch them.
* Clean out and refill any pitch pockets where the filler is cracked and/or shrinking. .
* Keep all gutters free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
* Water test any sump drains twice per year. Once in the spring and once in the fall before winter sets in. If they don't drain properly, call a plumber and get them working properly. Drains will often leak if they are holding water.
* Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
* Check all caulking and sealants on flashings and copings. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
* Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
Sprayed Polyurethane Foam (SPF)
* Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will expedite roof deterioration.
* Keep an eye on any blisters you see. If they get large enough that they split open, you will need to contact a foam contractor to repair them but they still should not leak.
* Any yellow exposed foam should be covered with polyurethane caulking.
* Any splits, punctures, or other forms of damage to the roof should be repaired using polyurethane caulking.
* Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
* Clean out all drains and water-test to ensure they aren't plugged.
* Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
* Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
(Information from roofhelp.com)
Friday, October 23, 2009
Importance of Ventilation
Ventilation is a crucial factor in the life of a roofing shingle. Heat build-up in the hot summer months, as well as the cold weather of winter will accelerate the aging process of your asphalt roofing shingles. Proper air circulation, regardless of the weather outside, will greatly reduce the chances of leaking, blistering, distortion, curling, rotting of wood structure, wet insulation and many other potential problems.
It is also important to note that adequate ventilation is required to validate the shingles manufacturer warranty. In Canada for example, minimum requirements prescribed in the National Building Code must be respected. In all cases, the most stringent applicable building codes must be followed.
It is also important to note that adequate ventilation is required to validate the shingles manufacturer warranty. In Canada for example, minimum requirements prescribed in the National Building Code must be respected. In all cases, the most stringent applicable building codes must be followed.
Thursday, October 22, 2009
Getting Quality Roof Repairs
Most of the roof leaks that people experience in their homes are the result of improper installations and defective flashings. Roof leaks can happen anywhere; they are especially prominent near the chimney, step, apron, pipes, and any points at which two roofs meet.
Roof leaks also frequently occur as a result of roof shingles being installed improperly or gutters that aren’t draining correctly. Here at Bella Roofing we have seen it all, and we are ready to provide any type of roof repair solution that your home may need. But if you wait too long to get the problem fixed, it could lead to serious structural damage to your entire home and the spread of life threatening black mold.
Our team of experienced roofing professionals is ready to work on just about any type of roofing system, including three-tab shingles, algae resistant shingles, tile shingles, hot tar roofs, architectural shingles and many more. From the smallest roofing repair jobs to the largest projects, we have the tools and knowledge to tackle it. We can repair any type of damage, whether it is caused by wind driven rains, overflowing gutters, faulty siding, faulty windows, chimneys, attic fan leaks, step flashing, condensation build-up, solar energy panels, and rotten wood, just to name a few.
Regardless of the type of shingle roof repair you require, or even if your roof is just dirty or you’re just ready for a change, we can help. Bella Roofing can provide almost any kind of roofing solution you may need. In addition to roof repair we also offer roof replacement services, siding repair, roof cleaning, and other aesthetic services. We’re happy to work with you to determine the best roof repair service for your home and it never costs anything to meet with us for a no-obligation quote.
The team here at Bella Roofing understands how urgent the situation can become when you need roof repair, and we will work hard to get your roof repaired as efficiently and affordably as possible. Your home is such an important place, which we understand, so we always complete all of our repairs using the highest quality materials. And though we’d love to see you again in the future, we do everything in our power to make sure you don’t need to call us again for repairs any time soon.
Roof leaks also frequently occur as a result of roof shingles being installed improperly or gutters that aren’t draining correctly. Here at Bella Roofing we have seen it all, and we are ready to provide any type of roof repair solution that your home may need. But if you wait too long to get the problem fixed, it could lead to serious structural damage to your entire home and the spread of life threatening black mold.
Our team of experienced roofing professionals is ready to work on just about any type of roofing system, including three-tab shingles, algae resistant shingles, tile shingles, hot tar roofs, architectural shingles and many more. From the smallest roofing repair jobs to the largest projects, we have the tools and knowledge to tackle it. We can repair any type of damage, whether it is caused by wind driven rains, overflowing gutters, faulty siding, faulty windows, chimneys, attic fan leaks, step flashing, condensation build-up, solar energy panels, and rotten wood, just to name a few.
Regardless of the type of shingle roof repair you require, or even if your roof is just dirty or you’re just ready for a change, we can help. Bella Roofing can provide almost any kind of roofing solution you may need. In addition to roof repair we also offer roof replacement services, siding repair, roof cleaning, and other aesthetic services. We’re happy to work with you to determine the best roof repair service for your home and it never costs anything to meet with us for a no-obligation quote.
The team here at Bella Roofing understands how urgent the situation can become when you need roof repair, and we will work hard to get your roof repaired as efficiently and affordably as possible. Your home is such an important place, which we understand, so we always complete all of our repairs using the highest quality materials. And though we’d love to see you again in the future, we do everything in our power to make sure you don’t need to call us again for repairs any time soon.
Friday, October 16, 2009
Getting a Quality Roofing Job Done
Step One: Finding a Good Roofer
A successful search means combining the right elements - quality of materials, installation and construction.
There are many ways to start your search, but referrals are obviously the best place to start. You can ask friends and famiily members for the names of roofing contractors they might have used. You might also contact your local Chamber of Commerce for active members, as well as local trade associations and local building suppliiers.
Step Two: Choosing a Good Roofer
After compiling a list of possible roofing contractor candidates, evaluate each one carefully. A good contractor will be happy to answer all your questions.
Set a meeting to discuss your needs and their qualifications. A good representative of a roofing company will take pride in showing the ability of his company to do your job right. You'll need to also get some information on the company to help you make your decision
--Business name and address and phone number
--Experience
--Licensing/Bonding
--Insurance Coverage
--Professional References
--Credit References
--Company Philosophy
--Company Guarantee
Step Three: Choosing Roofing Material
The contractor you have selected should have the very latest information on roofing materials. However, you should play an active role in the selection process of your roofing materials. Ask questions about different materials such as brand names, life expectancies, design, available colors, thickness, and warranties. This selection process on materials is as important as the process on selecting the roofer.
Step Four: Drafting a Contract
Most contractors will provide an estimate or proposal before actually drafting a contract. An estimate is more generic and will typically only include a single price, a generically described product, a color and no options. A proposal offers more detail with a choice of products by brand name, prices, services and designs. A proposal will normally offer options-good, better and best-and include product samples and literature.
A contractor who takes the time to prepare a good proposal will most likely do a more thorough job. All items to be accomplished should be written as part of your contract.
Get it in writing. Beware of verbal promises.
When a contract is presented, it should spell out the proposed work, prices and completion date. Read the contract carefully. Misunderstandings are the most common cause of contract disputes. Pay special attention to be certain the following points are covered in the contract.
* Building Permits - What's necessary? Consider local ordinances, costs, posting requirements.
* Start and Completion Dates including plan of action in case of weather delays.
* Products Materials -what will be used, brands, colors, etc.
* Project Inspections - number of inspections, completion timetable
* Site Procedures - work hours, clean-up procedures on and around your home, safety precautions, etc.
* Warranties - including both workmanship and product.
* Terms - detailed as method of payment to include a lien waiver upon final payment.
* Liens - You should be aware that under the laws of most states, a contractor who does work on your home, or a supplier of materials for such work, has a right to place a lien on your property. Make sure all essential elements of your agreement are written down and understood by both parties.
* Also, require the contractor to inform you of who his supplier will be along with any subcontractors which will be used on the job. Either pay them yourself or require that you have a receipt showing they have been paid before paying your contractor.
* Right-to-Rescind - providing the right to cancel the contract without penalty within a set period of time (usually three days).
Step Five: Letting the Roofer Roof.
A little well-planned research up front will undoubtedly save you a lot of time and trouble later on. Once you feel confident that you have the best contractor, the best products, and the best value, simply relax and let your contractor do his job. Do, however monitor the progress of your project to be certain your contractor lives up to his superior reputation.
(Information from inspect-ny.com, Daniel Friedman)
A successful search means combining the right elements - quality of materials, installation and construction.
There are many ways to start your search, but referrals are obviously the best place to start. You can ask friends and famiily members for the names of roofing contractors they might have used. You might also contact your local Chamber of Commerce for active members, as well as local trade associations and local building suppliiers.
Step Two: Choosing a Good Roofer
After compiling a list of possible roofing contractor candidates, evaluate each one carefully. A good contractor will be happy to answer all your questions.
Set a meeting to discuss your needs and their qualifications. A good representative of a roofing company will take pride in showing the ability of his company to do your job right. You'll need to also get some information on the company to help you make your decision
--Business name and address and phone number
--Experience
--Licensing/Bonding
--Insurance Coverage
--Professional References
--Credit References
--Company Philosophy
--Company Guarantee
Step Three: Choosing Roofing Material
The contractor you have selected should have the very latest information on roofing materials. However, you should play an active role in the selection process of your roofing materials. Ask questions about different materials such as brand names, life expectancies, design, available colors, thickness, and warranties. This selection process on materials is as important as the process on selecting the roofer.
Step Four: Drafting a Contract
Most contractors will provide an estimate or proposal before actually drafting a contract. An estimate is more generic and will typically only include a single price, a generically described product, a color and no options. A proposal offers more detail with a choice of products by brand name, prices, services and designs. A proposal will normally offer options-good, better and best-and include product samples and literature.
A contractor who takes the time to prepare a good proposal will most likely do a more thorough job. All items to be accomplished should be written as part of your contract.
Get it in writing. Beware of verbal promises.
When a contract is presented, it should spell out the proposed work, prices and completion date. Read the contract carefully. Misunderstandings are the most common cause of contract disputes. Pay special attention to be certain the following points are covered in the contract.
* Building Permits - What's necessary? Consider local ordinances, costs, posting requirements.
* Start and Completion Dates including plan of action in case of weather delays.
* Products Materials -what will be used, brands, colors, etc.
* Project Inspections - number of inspections, completion timetable
* Site Procedures - work hours, clean-up procedures on and around your home, safety precautions, etc.
* Warranties - including both workmanship and product.
* Terms - detailed as method of payment to include a lien waiver upon final payment.
* Liens - You should be aware that under the laws of most states, a contractor who does work on your home, or a supplier of materials for such work, has a right to place a lien on your property. Make sure all essential elements of your agreement are written down and understood by both parties.
* Also, require the contractor to inform you of who his supplier will be along with any subcontractors which will be used on the job. Either pay them yourself or require that you have a receipt showing they have been paid before paying your contractor.
* Right-to-Rescind - providing the right to cancel the contract without penalty within a set period of time (usually three days).
Step Five: Letting the Roofer Roof.
A little well-planned research up front will undoubtedly save you a lot of time and trouble later on. Once you feel confident that you have the best contractor, the best products, and the best value, simply relax and let your contractor do his job. Do, however monitor the progress of your project to be certain your contractor lives up to his superior reputation.
(Information from inspect-ny.com, Daniel Friedman)
Thursday, October 15, 2009
Drain Flashing Problems
The primary function of a roof’s drainage systems is to prevent the retention of water on the roof by removing water from the roof as quickly as possible. Every roof, including so-called "dead-level" roofs, must have some provision for drainage. Further, it is important that the drainage system be kept free from debris that might interfere with the proper flow of surface water.
Many roof problems can be traced directly to inadequately designed or improperly installed drainage systems; for example, the use of only one drain; the failure to install overflow scuppers in parapet walls; the placement of drains next to support columns instead of at points of maximum deflection; loose or missing drain clamping rings. Ponded water is the principal indication of inadequate drainage, and may indicate the presence of structural defects.
Source: Roofhelp.com
Many roof problems can be traced directly to inadequately designed or improperly installed drainage systems; for example, the use of only one drain; the failure to install overflow scuppers in parapet walls; the placement of drains next to support columns instead of at points of maximum deflection; loose or missing drain clamping rings. Ponded water is the principal indication of inadequate drainage, and may indicate the presence of structural defects.
Source: Roofhelp.com
Thursday, October 8, 2009
Roofing Contractor Tips
The typical life expectancy of a maintained roofing system is anywhere from 15 to 30 years. Some shingle manufacturers advertise that their shingles can simply have new shingles placed directly on top of the existing shingles, although this is not the best solution.
Many roofs that have been damaged due to age, weather, mold, or fungus often need new plywood sheathing replaced as well. It is at this time which other improvements to the attic, insulation, and roof structure can easily be made to enhance the comfort of the home.
Very often when a roof has had a leak, the trusses and other supporting components of the roof have also received substantial damage. At this point a homeowner would probably experience a large shock when a new estimate is given.
It is very important to disclose to a prospective contractor any leaks that have occurred in the past. With this information, the roofing contractor will be able to provide a more accurate and realistic estimate which can then be compared to other estimates.
Should the homeowner choose a "too good to be true" estimate and later unforeseen hidden damage is discovered, the price quote for the job will be null and void. This is usually listed in the fine print which very few individuals actually read.
An additional complication may be that the original roofing contractor refuses to continue the roof work until the homeowner accedes to the much higher estimate and pays additional moneys before work is resumed. Should the homeowner opt to switch to a different roofing contractor, some would not guarantee the work due to the quality of prior work being unknown or even refuse to take the job.
While these scenarios are few and rare, they do happen across the country. The easiest method for a homeowner to improve the chances of selecting a reliable, fair, and professional roofing contractor is to contact the Better Business Bureau and other organizations with which the roofing contractor is affiliated.
The longer length of time a builder or contractor has been in business is a good indication of reliability and quality, especially in smaller communities where word of mouth can destroy a business overnight.
Many roofs that have been damaged due to age, weather, mold, or fungus often need new plywood sheathing replaced as well. It is at this time which other improvements to the attic, insulation, and roof structure can easily be made to enhance the comfort of the home.
Very often when a roof has had a leak, the trusses and other supporting components of the roof have also received substantial damage. At this point a homeowner would probably experience a large shock when a new estimate is given.
It is very important to disclose to a prospective contractor any leaks that have occurred in the past. With this information, the roofing contractor will be able to provide a more accurate and realistic estimate which can then be compared to other estimates.
Should the homeowner choose a "too good to be true" estimate and later unforeseen hidden damage is discovered, the price quote for the job will be null and void. This is usually listed in the fine print which very few individuals actually read.
An additional complication may be that the original roofing contractor refuses to continue the roof work until the homeowner accedes to the much higher estimate and pays additional moneys before work is resumed. Should the homeowner opt to switch to a different roofing contractor, some would not guarantee the work due to the quality of prior work being unknown or even refuse to take the job.
While these scenarios are few and rare, they do happen across the country. The easiest method for a homeowner to improve the chances of selecting a reliable, fair, and professional roofing contractor is to contact the Better Business Bureau and other organizations with which the roofing contractor is affiliated.
The longer length of time a builder or contractor has been in business is a good indication of reliability and quality, especially in smaller communities where word of mouth can destroy a business overnight.
Filing an Insurance Claim
If you have experienced hail damage, take precautions by following the tips below, and call your insurance carrier to file a claim as soon as possible.
· Make personal safety your first priority. Remember, windows may be broken and high winds may have knocked down trees and power lines.
· Look for broken glass, sharp objects and live wires.
· Wear proper shoes and gloves.
· Don’t use rain-soaked electrical equipment.
Call your insurance carrier to file a claim if you have damage from a hailstorm. Be ready to provide at least a general description of your damage. A representative will walk you through your claim, recording the details.
If you have hail damage to the roof of your property or your car, it is your responsibility to take action to avoid further damage.
If you can, cover broken windows and holes in roofs with tarps or plywood to prevent water damage. Move wet items to drier ground, and wash and dry whatever you can. If you’re not sure it’s safe, professionals can help. You’ll usually find them listed under "contractors" or "water damage restoration" in your phone directory.
As part of documenting the damage, make sure to save receipts from any temporary fixes.
Your insurance policy typically covers the cost to repair common hail damage—including damage to roofs, walls and cars, and your inventory or belongings. However, your deductible does apply—and you may have a higher deductible for wind/hail damage on your policy. Check your policy to see what’s covered and the deductible you’ve chosen. Reviewing your policy will help you prepare questions for your claims professional.
As soon as you can, make a thorough list of items that the hail storm damaged—this will help your insurer process your claim faster. Document the damage with photos, video, bills and receipts. In the meantime, don’t throw out damaged items—especially expensive items.
Your claims professional will let you know the specific information they need to process your claim.
Your insurance company may require you to wait until your claims professional assesses your damage before you begin making permanent repairs. However, they encourage you to schedule permanent repairs as soon as possible because contractors can be difficult to schedule after a storm. Use a local, licensed, bonded, and insured contractor, and check references.
Insurers typically will replace damaged items and materials with the same type and quality of materials you had before the earthquake. For example, if you had a fiberglass roof, they will pay to repair or replace damage with fiberglass materials—but they won’t pay to replace it with more expensive slate tile.
If damage is extensive, people sometimes decide to take the opportunity to upgrade their property with better or more expensive materials. Again, your insurance companyy will only pay to replace materials of comparable kind and quality. If you want to pay the additional expense to upgrade, you’re welcome to do so out of your personal budget.
Any time you make improvements to your property, talk to your agent to make sure you have enough insurance, and to find out if you are eligible for discounts.
(Information from Safeco.com)
· Make personal safety your first priority. Remember, windows may be broken and high winds may have knocked down trees and power lines.
· Look for broken glass, sharp objects and live wires.
· Wear proper shoes and gloves.
· Don’t use rain-soaked electrical equipment.
Call your insurance carrier to file a claim if you have damage from a hailstorm. Be ready to provide at least a general description of your damage. A representative will walk you through your claim, recording the details.
If you have hail damage to the roof of your property or your car, it is your responsibility to take action to avoid further damage.
If you can, cover broken windows and holes in roofs with tarps or plywood to prevent water damage. Move wet items to drier ground, and wash and dry whatever you can. If you’re not sure it’s safe, professionals can help. You’ll usually find them listed under "contractors" or "water damage restoration" in your phone directory.
As part of documenting the damage, make sure to save receipts from any temporary fixes.
Your insurance policy typically covers the cost to repair common hail damage—including damage to roofs, walls and cars, and your inventory or belongings. However, your deductible does apply—and you may have a higher deductible for wind/hail damage on your policy. Check your policy to see what’s covered and the deductible you’ve chosen. Reviewing your policy will help you prepare questions for your claims professional.
As soon as you can, make a thorough list of items that the hail storm damaged—this will help your insurer process your claim faster. Document the damage with photos, video, bills and receipts. In the meantime, don’t throw out damaged items—especially expensive items.
Your claims professional will let you know the specific information they need to process your claim.
Your insurance company may require you to wait until your claims professional assesses your damage before you begin making permanent repairs. However, they encourage you to schedule permanent repairs as soon as possible because contractors can be difficult to schedule after a storm. Use a local, licensed, bonded, and insured contractor, and check references.
Insurers typically will replace damaged items and materials with the same type and quality of materials you had before the earthquake. For example, if you had a fiberglass roof, they will pay to repair or replace damage with fiberglass materials—but they won’t pay to replace it with more expensive slate tile.
If damage is extensive, people sometimes decide to take the opportunity to upgrade their property with better or more expensive materials. Again, your insurance companyy will only pay to replace materials of comparable kind and quality. If you want to pay the additional expense to upgrade, you’re welcome to do so out of your personal budget.
Any time you make improvements to your property, talk to your agent to make sure you have enough insurance, and to find out if you are eligible for discounts.
(Information from Safeco.com)
Wednesday, October 7, 2009
Choosing a Roofing Contractor
Thinking of getting roof repairs, or getting a new roof? Here are a few tips:
Before starting the project get a contract. This should include all the details of the project, time frame for completion, and price. It should clearly outline payment policies and warranties.
Read the warranty carefully to make sure you are adequately protected. Also, be sure the contract states they are responsible for clean up. Roofing materials can be very messy and you do not want to have to clean up and dispose of waste yourself. But keep in mind you can save yourself some money if you choose to tackle the cleanup process yourself.
Never be rushed into hiring a company. Take the time to interview potential roofers and check experience and references. Roofing repairs can be expensive and a new roof is a major investment. Protect your home by doing some research. Hire the roofer who has the best combination of experience and price and with whom you feel most comfortable.
Before starting the project get a contract. This should include all the details of the project, time frame for completion, and price. It should clearly outline payment policies and warranties.
Read the warranty carefully to make sure you are adequately protected. Also, be sure the contract states they are responsible for clean up. Roofing materials can be very messy and you do not want to have to clean up and dispose of waste yourself. But keep in mind you can save yourself some money if you choose to tackle the cleanup process yourself.
Never be rushed into hiring a company. Take the time to interview potential roofers and check experience and references. Roofing repairs can be expensive and a new roof is a major investment. Protect your home by doing some research. Hire the roofer who has the best combination of experience and price and with whom you feel most comfortable.
Weathering
Exposure to the weather generally dictates deterioration of roofing systems, depending on kinds of materials and the conditions of exposuure.
In general, inorganic roofing materials tend to deteriorate less rapidly from exposure than organic roofing materials. Hail may damage all types of roofing materials. Exposure to air pollutants and industrial or salt-laden atmospheres may accelerate the deterioration process of some roofing materials.
In general, inorganic roofing materials tend to deteriorate less rapidly from exposure than organic roofing materials. Hail may damage all types of roofing materials. Exposure to air pollutants and industrial or salt-laden atmospheres may accelerate the deterioration process of some roofing materials.