• Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. If your roof is starting to collect moss or algae, install some zinc or lead control strips.
• Keep all fungus and algae from the surface. Install zinc control strips along the hips and ridges if necessary.
• Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
• Keep all gutters free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
• Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
• Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
• Check the mortar on the chimney, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
• Check the open valley metal for rust. Wire brush the rust then prime and paint the metal.
(Information from roofhelp.com)
Monday, November 30, 2009
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
The Story Behind Asphalt Shingles
Asphalt shingles are currently the most popular type of residential roof material for a variety of reasons. They are relatively inexpensive, starting at around $0.80 per square foot installed and go up from there. Things that determine cost are geographical location, slope of the roof, height of the building, ease of access to the premises, complexity of the project, the particular type of shingle and numerous other factors.
They come in a variety of colors and styles, are fairly durable (some have been tested and have achieved a class IV hail rating - the highest available!), and can be easily repaired and maintained.
Asphalt shingles come in two basic types: glass fiber (a.k.a. fiber glass) and organic. Organic shingles consist of an organic felt material which is generally paper saturated with asphalt to make it waterproof. A top coating of adhesive asphalt is then applied and the ceramic granules are then embedded. Organic shingles contain around 40% more asphalt per square (100 sq. ft.) than their glass fiber counterpart which makes them weigh more and gives them excellent durability and blow-off resistance.
Glass fiber shingles have a glass fiber reinforcing mat manufactured to the shape of the shingle. This mat is then coated with asphalt which contains mineral fillers. The glass fiber mat is not waterproof by itself. It's purpose is for reinforcement. What makes the glass fiber shingle waterproof is the asphalt. However, the asphalt itself will not stick to the mat. For this reason, "fillers" are used. The fillers in the asphalt cling to the glass fibers in the mat. The asphalt then encapsulates the glass fibers, fills all of the little holes and voids in the mat rendering it waterproof. After this cools a bit, an adhesive asphalt is used to cover the mat and the ceramic granules are then embedded.
The ceramic granules are there for two reasons. The primary reason is to protect the shingles from the sun. The sun's UV rays are very damaging to asphalt and cause it to deteriorate prematurely. This is one of the same reasons that gravel is used on built-up roofs. The second and more obvious reason for the granules is aesthetics. Asphalt shingles are available in a wide variety of colors to match almost any facade or landscape.
So which type is better? By far, the more popular shingles are the glass fiber ones. This may be attributed to the fact that they are cheaper and easier to manufacturer than organic shingles making them more cost effective to the homeowner, or it may be that they are easier to work with, or they may simply be a personal preference of the roofing contractor.
The lifespan of asphalt shingles depends highly upon the environment. Shingles in cooler climates such as the northern United States seem to last longer than those installed in the warmer climates. Studies have shown that the average lifespan for a 20 year shingle in Phoenix, Arizona is around 14 years. In Minneapolis, Minnesota the lifespan was 19.5 years. And in Reading, Pennsylvania, the lifespan was 20.8 years. From this data it seems obvious that the hotter the environment is, the shorter the service life of the shingles.
One thing that's very damaging to shingles is Thermal Shock. Thermal Shock is what roofing materials experience when the ambient temperature changes dramatically within a very short period of time - usually 24 hours. For example, in Yreka, California, the temperatures during a summer day can often reach 100 degrees and at night, they'll often drop below 50, sometimes as low as 40. Roofing materials are unable to expand and contract to accommodate such a dramatic temperature change in such a short period of time so cracks and splits in the materials start occurring.
Water can then enter the materials and damage them further in two ways. One is the damage water does to asphalt materials in general. It's not that water hurts asphalt, but algae and fungus do and the continuous presence of water will permit algae and fungus to grow on asphalt materials. Another way water damages is the freeze-thaw cycle. In the cold months, water will get into the cracks and then freeze at night.
Water expands as it freezes so the more this occurs, the bigger the cracks or splits become. This is why most roofing contractors and consultants are such big advocates of sloped roofs. The better the roof sheds water, the less problems it will usually experience.
(Information from Roofhelp.com)
They come in a variety of colors and styles, are fairly durable (some have been tested and have achieved a class IV hail rating - the highest available!), and can be easily repaired and maintained.
Asphalt shingles come in two basic types: glass fiber (a.k.a. fiber glass) and organic. Organic shingles consist of an organic felt material which is generally paper saturated with asphalt to make it waterproof. A top coating of adhesive asphalt is then applied and the ceramic granules are then embedded. Organic shingles contain around 40% more asphalt per square (100 sq. ft.) than their glass fiber counterpart which makes them weigh more and gives them excellent durability and blow-off resistance.
Glass fiber shingles have a glass fiber reinforcing mat manufactured to the shape of the shingle. This mat is then coated with asphalt which contains mineral fillers. The glass fiber mat is not waterproof by itself. It's purpose is for reinforcement. What makes the glass fiber shingle waterproof is the asphalt. However, the asphalt itself will not stick to the mat. For this reason, "fillers" are used. The fillers in the asphalt cling to the glass fibers in the mat. The asphalt then encapsulates the glass fibers, fills all of the little holes and voids in the mat rendering it waterproof. After this cools a bit, an adhesive asphalt is used to cover the mat and the ceramic granules are then embedded.
The ceramic granules are there for two reasons. The primary reason is to protect the shingles from the sun. The sun's UV rays are very damaging to asphalt and cause it to deteriorate prematurely. This is one of the same reasons that gravel is used on built-up roofs. The second and more obvious reason for the granules is aesthetics. Asphalt shingles are available in a wide variety of colors to match almost any facade or landscape.
So which type is better? By far, the more popular shingles are the glass fiber ones. This may be attributed to the fact that they are cheaper and easier to manufacturer than organic shingles making them more cost effective to the homeowner, or it may be that they are easier to work with, or they may simply be a personal preference of the roofing contractor.
The lifespan of asphalt shingles depends highly upon the environment. Shingles in cooler climates such as the northern United States seem to last longer than those installed in the warmer climates. Studies have shown that the average lifespan for a 20 year shingle in Phoenix, Arizona is around 14 years. In Minneapolis, Minnesota the lifespan was 19.5 years. And in Reading, Pennsylvania, the lifespan was 20.8 years. From this data it seems obvious that the hotter the environment is, the shorter the service life of the shingles.
One thing that's very damaging to shingles is Thermal Shock. Thermal Shock is what roofing materials experience when the ambient temperature changes dramatically within a very short period of time - usually 24 hours. For example, in Yreka, California, the temperatures during a summer day can often reach 100 degrees and at night, they'll often drop below 50, sometimes as low as 40. Roofing materials are unable to expand and contract to accommodate such a dramatic temperature change in such a short period of time so cracks and splits in the materials start occurring.
Water can then enter the materials and damage them further in two ways. One is the damage water does to asphalt materials in general. It's not that water hurts asphalt, but algae and fungus do and the continuous presence of water will permit algae and fungus to grow on asphalt materials. Another way water damages is the freeze-thaw cycle. In the cold months, water will get into the cracks and then freeze at night.
Water expands as it freezes so the more this occurs, the bigger the cracks or splits become. This is why most roofing contractors and consultants are such big advocates of sloped roofs. The better the roof sheds water, the less problems it will usually experience.
(Information from Roofhelp.com)
Sunday, November 1, 2009
Roofing: Preventative Maintenance
Although some roof systems take less maintenance than others, all roof systems should be checked periodically to be sure that they are free of debris and drains are clear. Bella Roofing recommends that you inspect your roof quarterly.
The best preventative maintenance that one can do is perform semi-annual inspections to identify and solve problems as they occur. Roofs get more abuse from the elements than any other part of the building, and preventative maintenance is a key element to saving money on your roof by providing a longer service life. This section will provide some general guidelines to help keep your roof in good working condition for as long as possible.
Asphalt Shingles
* Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will expedite roof deterioration, especially if your roof is asphalt based such as a built-up roof or asphalt shingles.
* If your roof is starting to collect moss or algae, install some zinc or lead control strips.
* Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
* Keep algae off of the roof surface. Install zinc control strips along the hips and ridges if necessary.
* Dab some roof cement under any loose shingle tabs. One dab on either side should do.
* Replace any damaged shingles.
* Keep all gutter free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
* Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
* Check the open valley metal for rust. Wire brush the rust then prime and paint the metal. If rust is prevalent, it can be removed using Rust-Away® Oxidation and Corrosion Remover. Manufactured by Hocking International, 2121 Hoover Ave., National City, CA 91950. Ph: 619/474-8457 Fax: 619/477-5630. It works very well. Paint the valley with Rustoleum® or similar product afterward.
* Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
* Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
Built-Up and Modified Bitumen Roofs
* Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will expedite roof deterioration, especially if your roof is asphalt based such as a built-up roof or asphalt shingles.
* If your roof has a gravel surfacing and there are some bare spots present, clean the bare spot thoroughly using a broom and a wire brush if necessary. Be sure to remove all loose dirt generated from brushing and sweeping. Blow on the area if need be. Spread a thin layer of asphalt roof cement (mastic) over the bare area about 1/8 inch thick. Gather some loose gravel from other areas of the roof and embed it in the roof cement.
* Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
* Check the edge metal. Make sure that it isn’t separating at the seams. If it is, then the repairs need to be made as soon as possible. This can usually be done easily by yourself or by any local qualified contractor.
* Check for blisters in the roof. DO NOT STEP ON OR PUNCTURE THEM. Call a local qualified contractor to patch them.
* Clean out and refill any pitch pockets where the filler is cracked and/or shrinking.
* Keep all gutter free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
* Water test any sump drains twice per year. Once in the spring and once in the fall before winter sets in. If they don’t drain properly, call a plumber and get them working properly. Drains will often leak if they are holding water.
* Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
* Check all caulking and sealants on flashings and copings. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
* Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
Wood Shakes and Shingles
* Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. If your roof is starting to collect moss or algae, install some zinc or lead control strips.
* Keep all fungus and algae from the surface. Install zinc control strips along the hips and ridges if necessary.
* Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
* Keep all gutters free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
* Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
* Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
* Check the mortar on the chimney, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
* Check the open valley metal for rust. Wire brush the rust then prime and paint the metal. If rust is prevalent, it can be removed using Rust-Away® Oxidation and Corrosion Remover. Manufactured by Hocking International, 2121 Hoover Ave., National City, CA 91950. Ph: 619/474-8457 Fax: 619/477-5630. This stuff works very well.
Single-Ply Roofs
* Remove all debris from the roof surface. This includes vegetation, dirt, loose nails and screws, unused equipment, etc. With a single-ply roof, you have only one layer of protection, so if a nail head gets stepped on and penetrates that one thin layer, then eventually there will be a leak.
* Check the seams. If they are coming apart, then they need to be patched as soon as possible.
* Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
* Check the edge metal. Make sure that it isn’t separating at the seams. If it is, then the repairs need to be made as soon as possible. This can usually be done easily by yourself or by any local qualified contractor.
* Check for bubbles and blisters in the roof. DO NOT STEP ON OR PUNCTURE THEM. Call a local qualified contractor to patch them.
* Clean out and refill any pitch pockets where the filler is cracked and/or shrinking. .
* Keep all gutters free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
* Water test any sump drains twice per year. Once in the spring and once in the fall before winter sets in. If they don't drain properly, call a plumber and get them working properly. Drains will often leak if they are holding water.
* Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
* Check all caulking and sealants on flashings and copings. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
* Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
Sprayed Polyurethane Foam (SPF)
* Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will expedite roof deterioration.
* Keep an eye on any blisters you see. If they get large enough that they split open, you will need to contact a foam contractor to repair them but they still should not leak.
* Any yellow exposed foam should be covered with polyurethane caulking.
* Any splits, punctures, or other forms of damage to the roof should be repaired using polyurethane caulking.
* Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
* Clean out all drains and water-test to ensure they aren't plugged.
* Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
* Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
(Information from roofhelp.com)
The best preventative maintenance that one can do is perform semi-annual inspections to identify and solve problems as they occur. Roofs get more abuse from the elements than any other part of the building, and preventative maintenance is a key element to saving money on your roof by providing a longer service life. This section will provide some general guidelines to help keep your roof in good working condition for as long as possible.
Asphalt Shingles
* Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will expedite roof deterioration, especially if your roof is asphalt based such as a built-up roof or asphalt shingles.
* If your roof is starting to collect moss or algae, install some zinc or lead control strips.
* Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
* Keep algae off of the roof surface. Install zinc control strips along the hips and ridges if necessary.
* Dab some roof cement under any loose shingle tabs. One dab on either side should do.
* Replace any damaged shingles.
* Keep all gutter free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
* Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
* Check the open valley metal for rust. Wire brush the rust then prime and paint the metal. If rust is prevalent, it can be removed using Rust-Away® Oxidation and Corrosion Remover. Manufactured by Hocking International, 2121 Hoover Ave., National City, CA 91950. Ph: 619/474-8457 Fax: 619/477-5630. It works very well. Paint the valley with Rustoleum® or similar product afterward.
* Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
* Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
Built-Up and Modified Bitumen Roofs
* Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will expedite roof deterioration, especially if your roof is asphalt based such as a built-up roof or asphalt shingles.
* If your roof has a gravel surfacing and there are some bare spots present, clean the bare spot thoroughly using a broom and a wire brush if necessary. Be sure to remove all loose dirt generated from brushing and sweeping. Blow on the area if need be. Spread a thin layer of asphalt roof cement (mastic) over the bare area about 1/8 inch thick. Gather some loose gravel from other areas of the roof and embed it in the roof cement.
* Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
* Check the edge metal. Make sure that it isn’t separating at the seams. If it is, then the repairs need to be made as soon as possible. This can usually be done easily by yourself or by any local qualified contractor.
* Check for blisters in the roof. DO NOT STEP ON OR PUNCTURE THEM. Call a local qualified contractor to patch them.
* Clean out and refill any pitch pockets where the filler is cracked and/or shrinking.
* Keep all gutter free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
* Water test any sump drains twice per year. Once in the spring and once in the fall before winter sets in. If they don’t drain properly, call a plumber and get them working properly. Drains will often leak if they are holding water.
* Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
* Check all caulking and sealants on flashings and copings. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
* Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
Wood Shakes and Shingles
* Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. If your roof is starting to collect moss or algae, install some zinc or lead control strips.
* Keep all fungus and algae from the surface. Install zinc control strips along the hips and ridges if necessary.
* Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
* Keep all gutters free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
* Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
* Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
* Check the mortar on the chimney, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
* Check the open valley metal for rust. Wire brush the rust then prime and paint the metal. If rust is prevalent, it can be removed using Rust-Away® Oxidation and Corrosion Remover. Manufactured by Hocking International, 2121 Hoover Ave., National City, CA 91950. Ph: 619/474-8457 Fax: 619/477-5630. This stuff works very well.
Single-Ply Roofs
* Remove all debris from the roof surface. This includes vegetation, dirt, loose nails and screws, unused equipment, etc. With a single-ply roof, you have only one layer of protection, so if a nail head gets stepped on and penetrates that one thin layer, then eventually there will be a leak.
* Check the seams. If they are coming apart, then they need to be patched as soon as possible.
* Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
* Check the edge metal. Make sure that it isn’t separating at the seams. If it is, then the repairs need to be made as soon as possible. This can usually be done easily by yourself or by any local qualified contractor.
* Check for bubbles and blisters in the roof. DO NOT STEP ON OR PUNCTURE THEM. Call a local qualified contractor to patch them.
* Clean out and refill any pitch pockets where the filler is cracked and/or shrinking. .
* Keep all gutters free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
* Water test any sump drains twice per year. Once in the spring and once in the fall before winter sets in. If they don't drain properly, call a plumber and get them working properly. Drains will often leak if they are holding water.
* Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
* Check all caulking and sealants on flashings and copings. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
* Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
Sprayed Polyurethane Foam (SPF)
* Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will expedite roof deterioration.
* Keep an eye on any blisters you see. If they get large enough that they split open, you will need to contact a foam contractor to repair them but they still should not leak.
* Any yellow exposed foam should be covered with polyurethane caulking.
* Any splits, punctures, or other forms of damage to the roof should be repaired using polyurethane caulking.
* Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
* Clean out all drains and water-test to ensure they aren't plugged.
* Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
* Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
(Information from roofhelp.com)